Skye Trail 29th April – 3rd May 2022 - with Mark Canning

 

Skye Trail 29^th April – 3^rd May 2022

With Mark Canning

Day 1 Rubha Hunish to Trotternish Ridge (13.68miles)

We had camped at the campsite at Portree and arranged to leave Marks van at the site. Next step was the local service bus to the telephone box at the Shulista road end.

The weather was great and we made quick progress to the Lookout Bothy.

The trail then follows the coastline, cuts the corner at The Aird and then follows the coastline down to Flodigarry. With clear sunny weather the route was pretty stunning.

Across the main road and a quick rest and lunch stop at Loch Langaig we then followed the route up to the Quiraing. 

We generally had the place to ourself but as we got closer to the Quiraing the tourists were out in force even though it was slipping into early evening. The guide books warn about limited water on the Trotternish Ridge, and as we were camping, we were keen to fill up bottles and spare bladders. Eventually we found the faintest trickle of water running down a rock face which we were able to fill up one bottle and decant into all the others – a bit of a slow process and as we were half blocking the path a bit of amusement and curiosity for the tourists trying to get by.

Happy that we now had water, we crossed the main road and headed up onto the ridge, only to cross a stream with a plentiful supply of water!

Once we left the newly furbished carpark, we were back on our own. We dropped down off Bioha Buidhe and camped up on the ridge, with pretty stunning views to the west and the east.

 A relatively short day but 3,000ft of elevation and the first day with heavy bags. Although we both pack light (around 15kg) it is certainly much heavier than my usual running bag, and it was good to get the feet up and get some grub!

Day 2 - Trotternish Ridge to Portree (22.7miles)

We were up and away before 8am as we knew this was going to be a long day if we were going to make Portree. The cloud had come in overnight, but initially the wind was still light, with a slight drizzle. Unfortunately this did not last long, the wind strengthened and the drizzle increased to rain and pretty soon we were getting buffeted around and getting pretty soaked. I had (stupidly) left my walking jacket in the car, and only had a light weight running jacket (fine if you are running and moving quickly, but not so good in these conditions). Soon I had just about every spare layer I had with me and multiple hoods up, with a head torch on to keep the hoods in place. Even then I was bordering on being cold – the contrast with the previous days weather was incredible!

Sadly, the cloud came down as well, I am sure the Trotternish Ridge is a stunning route but we saw little to none of it, except the odd glimpse when we were beside a high cliff edge. The easy walking from the day before had given way to a series of ascents and descents – these might have been softened if there had been some visibility but it felt like a long slog till we got to the Old Man of Storr.

I had nipped off route to gain a mini summit and promised Mark I would catch up, but somehow or other stayed ahead of him. The quicker I went to catch him up, the reality was I was getting further ahead!

We had only seen one walker all morning but as we got to the Old Man of Storr, even with the rain the tourists were again out. Once I got down to the public toilets I realised Mark must have still been behind me – a bit of sorting kit out and trying to get warm in the toilets Mark soon appeared. Since I was soaked through anyway, I was keen to crack on to Portree, but Mark was having a bit of a sense of humour failure with the weather and was keen to wait for the bus. My preference when cold is always to keep moving, so we agreed that I would head on myself. What I never knew was Mark had got water in his phone which was no longer working!

After leaving the car park, you head down the road for a short section and then cut down towards the sea. As I was plodding on down the roads, which were running with water, the rain got even heavier. Those who know Skye weather know there is rain and then there is Skye rain. At this point I was starting to have serious doubts and did think about returning to get the bus with Mark.

The route then follows the coast all the way to Portree, which is again a stunning bit of coastline. Eventually as I got closer to Portree the rain relented and eventually I was having to discard some layers, which I was trying to hang off my backpack to at least get them slightly drier.

I got myself into Portree and then toured round all the pubs trying to track Mark down. Eventually I gave up and decided to head up to the campsite, thinking that might be a logical place for him to head to. Sure enough, when I was half way up the road, he was coming down in his van to find me. Mark had eventually managed to get a bus to Portree and had managed to get his kit dried out and sorted (with the exception of his phone).

One bonus of being in Portree again was we were able to nip down and get a curry and a few beers!

A long day – 22.7miles with 8,500ft of elevation and some pretty disgusting weather to contend with!

Day 3 - Portree to Camasunary Bothy 25miles  

The previous days monsoon rain had cleared away and it was a bright and clear day. The route follows the main road out of Portree and then the single track road to Peinachorrain, before picking up a footpath to Sligachan Hotel, which made for much easier walking.

The temptation of an early afternoon beer in the Sligachan Hotel was too much for us both to resist. What was not quite on the plan was one beer led to another, and another, and another and eventually an evening meal.

We did eventually manage to drag ourselves out, to be treated to a pretty impressive sunset. The plan had been to make it to Camasunary Bothy, so we agreed we would stick to that plan, but soon the sun had set and the head torches were out. The route splits into two with an option to go round by the Bad Step. We had opted not to go that way as were unsure how difficult it would be with large bags.

After a lot of stomping in the dark, as the effects of the alcohol were wearing off we eventually got to the lodge house, but then we managed to miss the path to the bothy and ended up stumbling around in the dark trying to find it.

Sincere apologies to the other bothy occupants as we stumbled in at 1am. It was a two room bothy so we opted to sleep in the first room to save disturbing the others as we were unsure there was space. At some point Mark decided I was snoring too much and went and pitched up outside. Two French lads who were cycling, got their revenge on me, for waking them up, by getting up just after 5am to set off.

By 8am everyone had left and I had the place to myself. I had a wee wander along the shore and across to the old bothy but was totally saddened by the state of the beach – the quantity of waste and rubbish is such a beautiful location is heart-breaking!

A kayaker was working up the coast from the south against a strong head wind and stopped and came in for a chat. Turns out Ruairidh was from Lewis and had been attending a wedding at Elgol just down the coast.

A long day, made even longer by the pub stop - 25miles, but only 1,660ft of elevation

Day 4 - Camasunary Bothy to north end of Loch Slapin 14.6miles

After leaving the bothy the path quickly follows the cliff – it is certainly not a path for the faint hearted, as there are pretty big drops all along the route.

A quite stop at the shop at Elgol for some grub and then we followed the route east and then back north. This section is a mix of single track roads and paths and compared to day 1 and 2 is pretty steady walking. Mark had got on ahead at one point and a young couple, in a camper had asked if I needed anything – which was very kind of them (NB this happens quite frequently when walking or cycle touring as people view you as vulnerable! The reality is you usually are already carrying everything you need but it is always nice to be asked). My big regret of the week is that I refused, when I could have asked for a beer. I am sure if I had caught up with Mark with a beer in hand, his face would have been a picture! Never mind – next time!

The route then heads up the side of Loch Slapin and back down the east side, passing through Torrin, and we had planned on camping up someplace near Calaman Cave. As we were walking round the end of Loch Slapin, a camper pulled up behind us and the words “I’m just camping up here for the night – I have food and beer left from the wedding – do you fancy joining me?” It was our Ruairidh our kayaker from the morning and needless to say we needed very little encouragement. A great night sharing stories, food and drink and a beautiful part of the world – what more could you want!

A pretty easy day at 16.6miles, 2,215ft of elevation but maybe made slightly harder by a slight hangover and lack of sleep!

Day 5 - north end of Loch Slapin to Broadfoot 13.8miles

The weather was back to being overcast and a little bit drizzle! We said our goodbyes and headed off towards Torrin with high hopes of a café to be open for some grub. Sadly nothing was open so down the road to Camas Malag beach and back onto the track and path which took us down to Loch Eishort and further east before heading almost due north to get to the finish at Broadford.

The drizzle had pretty much turned to incessant rain and although a nice enough section of the route it had none of the drama of the previous sections. We made good time and were soon eating fish and chips in Broadford.

We discussed staying in Broadford for the night but decided to head back to Portree. Mark was keen to get the section he had missed and I planned to get a run in the next day. So back for our third night at the Portree campsite. We had an interesting evening meeting some of the locals in the Pier Hotel – I genuinely don’t think I have ever seen a grown man so drunk, but also able to almost function!

Another easy day 13.8miles and 1,500ft elevation

Day 6 – Sligachan hotel to Camasunary Bothy loop via the bad step! 19miles

It was great to get the trail shoes and the running vest on, compared to walking with a heavy bag. The plan was to take the alternative route via the bad step and if I was too big a wuss, I would just do an out and back. The weather was a bit dull and overcast but the section down through Geln Sligachan was pretty impressive (just a pity we had done it in darkness two nights previously!).

Dropping down towards Loch Coruisk you can see why Loch na Cuilce is such an iconic anchorage for passing yachts – a simply stunning part of the world. I had the place to myself, apart from the odd tour boat coming past.

The Bad Step was a bit awkward but I never had any real problem getting by – if you did slip and fall, as long as you could swim you would probably be ok, as below you was the sea!

A rather cold river crossing and I was soon back on the beach at the old Camasunary Bothy and then a trek back up the valley to the Sligachan hotel. A cracking circuit, mainly on path and trail, most of which was runnable!

19miles, 2,730ft elevation

We finished of the week by camping at the Red Squirrel campsite at Glencoe and then a few beers in the Clachaig Inn.

Skye Trail – I would highly recommend it to anyone. We went north to south as there are more transport options for a finish at Broadford than there is to the north.

It is probably a tricky route to do if you don’t intend to wild camp. The first 40 miles to Portree is the main section with little or no amenities but after that you have Sligachan Hotel, shop at Elgol, cafes at Torrin (if open). The highlights would have to be the sea cliffs in the north, the Trotternish ridge (I will need to go and do it on a good day!) and the route through Glen Sligachan.

Postscript - Lyme Disease – I managed to pick up three ticks, on my backside, which were all removed – thanks Mark!

After not feeling well all summer, in late August I finally tested positive for Lyme disease. I had made the mistake of not keeping an eye on the tick bites for the red circle (although only about 30% of population get this and they were on my backside) and had not associated feeling generally tired and run down with the possibility of having Lyme disease. Fortunately, we got it early enough and I was able to get treated for it.

Moral of story – check for ticks and if you do get them keep a look out for red circle and if you start feeling a bit rubbish get yourself tested for Lyme disease.